Inspections, Insurance and Itchy feet.

I got the call on Thursday that the bike was waiting for it's customs inspection; I rushed to the shipping agents office and then on to the Bonded warehouse where my bike was being held hostage. The customs official arrived and decided that it was, indeed, a motorbike, but would only be released the next day following a police inspection. So, back to central Bogotá for more sightseeing: the Gold museum and a demonstration outside the Ministry for Agriculture with heavily armed soldiers in attendance along with riot police in full Robocop gear ready for action. Fortunately, it all passed off peacefully.

The next day; after the police inspection had confirmed that it was, indeed, a motorbike, I was free to go. The shipping agent had helped me arrange some temporary bike insurance the previous day. Nothing to stop me heading out; except I hadn't really tested my luggage before I left and it took a long time to work out how to get it all strapped to the bike; still a work in progress. Carrying way too much stuff: not really heavy, but too bulky. I'm sure it will be pared down as the journey continues.

Rather than head back into the traffic chaos of downtown Bogota, I filled up with cheap petrol and wobbled out from the airport to join the main road to the South West. Finally on the move.

 

Bogota, Colombia.

After a long, but not too traumatic, flight, I finally landed in Bogotá. A new town, a new country, a new continent. No real idea what to expect; it was evening time, already dark, so I just caught glimpses of this alien place on the cab ride from the airport to the old historic centre where I'd pre-booked some accommodation. The hotel was a bit hidden; the taxi driver unsure, but a local policeman pointed me in the right direction. Good place. I just dropped my bags, got my head together and headed out to find some food. A bar appeared first, so I ducked in to calm the nerves and decided I wasn't that hungry, just needed to slake the thirst. Several hours and beers later, the jet-lag was screaming at me. Bed.
My oft-tested strategy of getting a skin-full on the first night after a long flight served me well yet again. The next day, well rested, I headed out to explore Bogotá in the grey, drizzly morning. Wasn't too cold, but windy and a bit miserable. Eventually headed up to Montserrat on the funicular cable car for panoramic views over Bogotá before descending for a wander around the "Historico Centrico". Real nice, especially as the weather was co-operating with the sun out and temperatures rising. Heavily armed police/army on many of the street corners a reminder of "la violencia" of the not too distant past. Modern Bogotá feels very safe though (albeit in my limited exposure so far).
No concrete word on when I can get my bike back from the customs iron fist as yet. Friday seems to be the best case scenario; otherwise it'll be after the weekend. Not ideal. Diverted into the (ubiquitous) Irish bar in the afternoon for a quick pint which turned into 5. I need my bike quickly, if only for the sake of my liver.
More tourist stuff tomorrow (maybe even a dreaded museum), while I await word on the bike's fate. Bogotá is a good place; there are far worse places to be waiting.

Tedious bike prep information. Part #3

Just had my bike back after I had a few jobs done by a proper Yamaha mechanic (stuff beyond my limited capabilities).

#A.I.S. Removal: removed the A.I.S. system entirely rather than just clamping off the hose as before. the bike still pops and bangs a bit, but nothing like the shotgun sound of before.

#Clutch and Primary Drive Nut: the clutch cover was removed and the clutch plates checked over and new heavy duty springs were installed. The primary drive nut was also checked (as some reports of these working loose over time). Mine was beginning to work loose, so has been replaced, torqued and lock-tited in place. Also, new chain and sprockets.

#Full service: fluids and filters changed; valves checked and re-greasing of rear suspension and swing-arm.

#"Rattle": an annoying rattle that appeared somewhere around the headstock at around 3000-3500 revs in lower gears has gone!! Happy days.

So, the bike is pretty much good to go. I'll try and clean it and put on some ACF-50 before I go; but time is getting very short now.

Tedious bike prep information. Part #2

#New Tyres: Heidenau K60 scouts. Very hard wearing and genuine 50/50 tyres which should last the trip. Even though I managed to split my rear Heidenau in Uzbekistan in 2012, I still think they are just about the best available tyres for this kind of trip.                

#Head Race Bearing: On a recent ride: the front end didn't feel right:; to the point that I turned round and went home because it just felt unsafe. My guess was wheel bearings. Wrong. The head race bearings were completely shot. A known problem on the Ten (insufficient grease from factory assembly). I had them checked before the 2012 trip. OK then, but 16,000 odd thousand miles later they need replacing. Who knew?

#Headlight protector: maybe a bit unnecessary; but it certainly makes the bike look more "adventure" (although not a term I like; its just going on holiday on a bike!)

#Chopped tail: mainly to reduce weight and to stop the number plate falling off (again!) as it is more securely attached to the new shorter tail section. Because of the exhaust pipe, the number plate is not in the centre and the rear indicators are asymmetrical and at an odd angle; but it just makes the bike more unique.



#Battery and Regulator/Rectifier LED warning thingy: I actually installed this before the 2012 trip as an early warning for a failing battery and /or regulator/rectifier. I carried a spare reg./rec. last time as some were reported as failing on the Ten. Although I did the fix on mine before I set off and it has been fine. But it is still good to now if the battery is losing charge before it leaves you stranded. Only cost a few quid and installation was so easy, even I could manage it.

#Metal Mule Radiator guard: again, actually installed before the last trip. Maybe useful, maybe not? Had no radiator problems, so probably done it's job.

Booked!

The flight is booked; the trip is on!

Bogota to Buenos Aires by Bike

After some more research, it seems that the best, easiest places to freight to/from in South America are Bogota and Buenos Aires. So that is the new plan (and new blog title) "Bogota to Buenos Aires by Bike", if only for the alliteration. Now there are 6 countries on the itinerary:
Colombia,
Ecuador,
Peru,
Bolivia,
Chile,
Argentina
I will have 3 months total to travel between these two cities on a route yet to be decided. There are lots of places I want to visit; it's just a case of finding the best, most scenic and interesting routes with which to link them up. I have been re-reading Dan Walsh for inspiration. Whatever happened to Dan Walsh? I have also been reading through my 2012 trip blog; not a very good attempt at blogging, but it brought back how great that trip was and how much I enjoy long distance biking. As Dan says " the road works......."

The South American Option

Major change of plan! After failing to generate any interest from other bikers to share costs in China and Burma and failing to get a reply from the guy who can (allegedly) get you and your bike into China legally but without a guide; a change of plan (and blog title) has arisen. The more I think about it, the less I like the idea of paying money to be babysat through various countries en route to Thailand. It should be about the freedom of the ride; not the bureaucracy and red tape. So, South America beckons:

NO visas
NO carnet
NO babysitting by paranoid regimes

Already had a quote to get my bike in and out of South America: expensive and no doubt cheaper to buy a bike there and resell it at the end. But this is leg 2 of my RTW trip; so I have to do it on my beloved Tenere (she would never forgive me if I left her behind).

The very vague plan for now is to fly myself and the bike into Colombia or Ecuador in September and spend up to 3 months meandering south through  Peru, Bolivia and Chile to Santiago where I will return to the UK. Maybe add on a bit of Argentina if time permits. The weather looks good for this: Springtime most of the way, so avoiding extreme heat and cold (excepting the high bits). So, time to learn some Spanish.

Hola South America!